Drum Set Parts Labeled and Explained – Complete Setup Guide

Drum sets go back to the early 19th Century when the percussion section of a band was exceedingly asked to play the same amount of parts with fewer players. Instead of individual players for each instrument, drummers needed to play bass drum, toms, snare, cymbals, and other percussion instruments.

The parts of a drum set configuration have been fairly consistent since the 1930s. By this time, the hi-hat stand had brought the foot activated cymbals closer to the player, and hardware for cymbals and tom mounting placed these instruments in orientations that resemble what we see today.

In the following article, the parts of a modern drum set are labeled and explained. It provides basic information about how to set up a drum set as well as tips for setup configurations that might make it easier for you to play the drum set.

The Drums Labeled and Explained

Drums are membranophones. They often have a round wooden shell with a drumhead (or membrane) stretched across one or more ends of the shell. 

Hardware is used to fasten drumheads and tune them according to the desired sound. It’s commonly made of rope, metal, or some other material strong enough for the job.

The drum heads are made of either natural or synthetic materials. Different materials, along with how the heads are tuned, can produce a variety of sounds.

Drumheads make contact with the drum shell on its bearing edge. These edges are cut at a few different angles and can be more pointed or rounded, each resulting in different tone qualities.

The drum rims, tension rods, and lugs work together to pull the head down beyond the bearing edge. This is particularly important because it’s how the drum is tuned.

Rims for snare drums and toms are either triple flanged or diecast. Most of the flange designs have sharp angles. Some rims, like the ones you might find on a Slingerland drum set, are rounded (see image below).

Diecast rims (or hoops) are thicker than flanged rims. In general, the thicker rims tend to give you a heavier crack.

As you turn the tension rods, they thread into the lugs and the flange on the head of the rod pulls the rim down. The drum’s tuning depends on these rods pulling the rim down evenly. This tightens the drum head and raises the pitch.

Snare Drum Parts

A snare drum has wire snares that contact the bottom head, giving the drum its characteristic buzzing snare drum sound.

The exact material used in a set of snares can vary depending on the application. For example, a symphonic snare drum would often have a few options for different snare materials, including light and heavy cable or wire.

The snares are attached to the drum with a strainer on one end and a butt plate on the other. You can adjust the tension of the snares with the strainer.

Most strainers have a quick release to drop the snares away from the snare-side drumhead (aka, the hazy). This opens up more sound possibilities and opportunities to be creative with a drum that sounds more like a high-pitched tom or timbale, depending on the tuning.

Snare drum shells also include a snare bed along the bearing edge of the snare side of the drum. These areas of the bearing edge are slightly lower than the rest of the drum shell. This allows the snares to contact the drum head more evenly.

A snare drum has 8 to 10 lugs and tension rods. The amount of lugs and tension rods depends on the size and sometimes the quality. For example, a 14 inch snare drum of higher quality would most often include 10 lugs for more precise tuning.

Bass Drum (Kick)

The bass drum is usually the largest drum in a set. Drum sizes often range from 16 inch to 24 inch with the occasional extreme larger or smaller sizes.

Bass drums utilize hoops to pull the drumhead against the bearing edge instead of rims. The hoops are held on by claws and tension rods. The rod goes through the claw and into the drum lug, which is attached to the shell. Then, the claw grabs the hoop and pulls it down as the tension rod is tightened.

For a bass drum, like most drums in a drum set, we use a batter head on one side and a resonant on the other. Batter heads come in many different thicknesses and dampening systems. The resonant (or front) head often has a hole in it to release some of the air quickly, which helps to bring out more of the attack in the drum sound.

Most bass drums are not on stands. They lie such that the hoops and sometimes the shell contact the ground. This is why bass drums have spurs (see image below) on each side of the drum to keep it from rolling side to side. The spurs also help keep the drum from sliding forward.

Bass drum spurs come in a variety of designs. Since the spur is supposed to keep the drum from moving around, they include either rubber ends or spikes that contact the floor, and some include both.  

Spurs that fold down and lock in place with angle and telescopic adjustment are a common modern design. Other spurs simply fold or slide into place to bring the drum off the floor and provide an anchor.

Other bass drum hardware, like for a rack tom or cymbal, is explained in the Drum Set Hardware section below.

Rack and Floor Toms

Toms come from early 20th Century drum set players adding tom-toms, an Asian drum, to their contraption kits. Unlike modern toms, which are built like a snare drum without snares, many of the early tom-toms had skins that were tacked onto the shell.

The two common types of toms are the rack tom and floor tom, often different in size. Although no rules exist about diameter and depth, most rack toms range from 8 to 14 inches. Floor toms are generally 14 to 8 inches, and the shell depths vary for rack and floor toms. In general, the depths are either the same as the diameter or one to two inches shorter.

A tom has anywhere from 4 to 8 lugs. The larger the diameter, usually it means that more lugs are used to hold the drumhead onto the shell. More lugs can also be better for tuning, although it’s not essential to sound good. Sounding good is more about how well you play, the condition of the drum heads, and the drum tuning.

The rack and floor tom hardware is specific to these types of drums, so those drum set parts will be labeled and explained in the section below on drum set hardware.

Drumsticks

The different parts of a drumstick are used to play different instruments on a drum set in particular ways. These parts include the tip, taper, shoulder, shaft, and butt.

The Cymbals

Cymbals are the musical metals of the drum set. They are used to keep time, add accents, and support a range of musical events in any given song.

Anatomy of a Cymbal

All cymbals have the same general features. Working from the outer area to the inner, these features include the edge, bow, bell, and center hole.

Most of the crashing on a cymbal happens closer to the edge. This area, when struck with the shoulder or shaft of the drumstick, excites the cymbal into a wash sound that sustains the crash sound until the decay ends.

Players with more sophisticated touch can generate several different crash sounds from the same cymbal. For example, you can use the shoulder of the drum stick to strike the bow of the cymbal and generate a very different sounding crash than when the edge is struck.

Each cymbal also has a top and bottom. Once it is placed on the stand, the cymbal will often spin until it finds a resting position. This position will give you the top and bottom of the cymbal, and it will almost always rest in this position.

Types of Cymbals

Most drum sets include a ride cymbal, hi-hat, and one or two crash cymbals. These cymbals are the basics for keeping time and accenting the music in various ways.

Other types of cymbals include effects like a splash, china, stack, or a trashy effects cymbal with slots or holes cut out of it.

Type of Cymbal	Description	Uses / Applications
1. Hi-Hats	Two cymbals, each with the bows facing outwardly, on a stand designed to bring the top hat down onto the bottom with a foot pedal.	Main time-keeping cymbals, played with stick or foot.
2. Ride	A ride is a large diameter cymbal played like your riding along on a train or galloping with a horse.	It’s the main time-keeping cymbal, sometimes used as a heavy crash. The bell, edge, and bow of the cymbal are also used for percussive accents for various sounds.
3. Crash	Thin cymbal that excites faster than a ride when struck on the edge and decays quickly for control.	Accents and phrase markers whether struck directly or rolled, can be used as a ride cymbal by playing with the tip on the bow or the shoulder of the stick on the edge repeatedly.
4. Splash	Smaller diameter thin cymbals that excite fast and decay quickly.	Accents, supported or unsupported by drums.
5. Stack	Two or more cymbals placed close together so they touch and make a new sound when struck with a stick.	Used like a crash, ride, or splash — main ride patterns or accents.
6. China	Trashy crash sound with a flange on the edge angled in the opposite direction as the arc of the bow, often inverted on the cymbal stand.	Played like a crash cymbal (ride, too).
7. Swish	Like a China with equally-spaced holes and rivets around the end of the bow where the flange starts upward, often mounted with the bell facing up on the cymbal stand.	Played more like a ride cymbal, especially in  big band.
8. Finger / Hand	Two identical cymbals, each held on one hand or the other, struck together with specific techniques for achieving quality sounds.	Crash, hi-hat sound simulations.
9. Effects	Various sizes, usually holes in the cymbal to create a trashy or unique sound.	Played like a crash, ride, or splash.

Drum Set Hardware

The hardware makes the drum set playable by one drummer. Prior to modern stands and mounts, the cymbals were once held with a player’s hands and the drums were worn by the player or placed on the ground.

Snare Drum Stands

Snare drum stands have a top and bottom. The bottom stabilizes the stand on the ground, typically with a tripod leg design. The top, also called the basket, has three arms that hold the drum in place and can be adjusted to suit the needs of each player.

Snare drum stands feature both height and angle adjustments. The height adjustment is critical to a drummer’s posture and should be set high enough to play the drum comfortably. The angle adjustment allows drummers to position the drum

The basket comes in a couple of different designs. Older snare drum baskets often have two arms that pivot into place and a third that slides back and forth to adjust for a secure hold on the drum. The newer basket design, which is far more common, has three arms that unfold. A threaded knob in the center of the stand is used to adjust the hold on the snare drum.

Kick Drum Pedal

The drum set was essentially created when the first kick drum pedal found its way to the bandstand. Since drummers at the end of the 19th Century needed to play multiple drum and percussion parts, they began to play snare drum and bass drum simultaneously.

Kick drum pedals include a footboard, direct drive, cam, beater, and a spring. The footboard connects to the direct drive which is connected to the cam. The cam holds the beater and rotates on a horizontal shaft that’s tensioned by the spring.

The spring is a key piece of the kick pedal. Its tension determines how fast the pedal will rebound from the drum after it is struck. Most springs are adjustable by turning a nut at the bottom of the threaded piece that holds it opposite the piece that holds the spring to the drive shaft.

Many cams are also adjustable. Once the cam screw is loosened on the rocker (or gauge), the placement of rocker on the horizontal shaft can change, bringing the beater closer or farther from the drum head.

Hi-Hat Stand Labeled and Exaplained

A hi-hat stand is used to support and control the hi-hat cymbals. It’s one of the essential parts of a drum set, and it consists of several parts, including the following.

1. Base: The base is the foundation of the hi-hat stand, and it sits on the ground. It is usually made of metal and designed to provide stability to the foot pedal by keeping it from sliding around.
2. Legs: The legs are attached to the base tube, and they provide support and stability to the stand. They are adjustable, which allows you to adjust the height and angle of the stand for some designs.
3. Pedal: The pedal is the part of the stand that controls the opening and closing of the hi-hat cymbals. When you press down on the pedal, the two cymbals come together because the rod is pulled down through the tube.
4. Rod: The rod is a metal bar that connects the pedal to the top part of the stand, where the cymbals are attached. It has two parts that are connected with threads and a fixed nut that screws together. The lower half of the rod assembly is spring loaded to return the rod up to a normal resting position after the pedal is released.
5. Clutch: The clutch is the piece that attaches the top cymbal to the rod. The clutch holds the cymbal with two top locking nuts and a bottom nut that supports the cymbal from the bottom of the clutch. The clutch also controls how loose or tight the hi-hat cymbals are by adjusting the locking nuts accordingly.
6. Top cymbal: The top cymbal is the cymbal that is to the clutch via the rod. It is usually a little thinner than the bottom cymbal, but this is not always the case.
7. Bottom cymbal: The bottom cymbal is the cymbal that is stationary, and it sits inverted on a cymbal seat that is attached to the adjustable tube. When the top cymbal is pressed down, it comes into contact with the bottom cymbal, creating the classic “chick” sound of the hi-hat.

All of these parts work together to create a versatile and responsive hi-hat stand that allows drummers to create a wide range of sounds and rhythms.

Cymbal Stands

A cymbal stand is a piece of equipment used by drummers to hold cymbals in place. The main parts of a cymbal stand are as follows.

1. Base: The base is the foundation of the cymbal stand and provides stability. It is usually made of metal and has three legs that can be adjusted for height and angle.
2. Tube: The tube is a metal pole that connects the base to the rest of the stand. It can be adjusted for height and is often telescopic, allowing for easy adjustments.
3. Tilter: The tilter is a mechanism that allows the cymbal to be positioned at any angle. It is usually located at the top of the stand and can be adjusted by turning a wing nut or lever.
4. Mounting Bolt: The mounting bolt is the part of the cymbal stand that the cymbal slides over. It goes through the center hole of the cymbal, which is held on by a combination of felts, washers, and a wing nut.
5. Cymbal Felts: These are small pieces of felt that are placed on either side of the cymbal to prevent metal-to-metal contact between the washer on the bottom or the wing nut on the top.
6. Wing Nuts: Wing nuts are used to secure the cymbal felts, boom arm and tilter in place.
7. Cymbal Sleeve: The cymbal sleeve is about an inch or more long and slides over the mounting bolt. It protects the cymbal from rubbing up against the bolt. This is important because when the metal cymbal rubs against the metal bolt, it slowly carves a notch in the center hole of the cymbal, a process known as keyholing.
8. Boom Arm: The boom arm is a metal arm that extends from the tilter and holds the cymbal in place. It can be adjusted for length and angle, allowing the drummer to position the cymbal exactly where they want it.

Rack and Floor Tom Hardware

These two types of toms are also different in the way they are mounted or supported for play. Rack toms are attached to hardware that either comes up from the bass drum or off other hardware like a stand or drum rack. Floor toms have legs that slide into brackets mounted to the side of the shell and can be adjusted to set the height and angle of the drum.

The rack tom hardware comes in more forms than that of the floor tom. For example, the Pearl style tom arms (below right) include a long vertical tube that connects to a shorter tube via a tilter. The shorter tube slides into the mounting bracket.

Other popular drum manufacturers, like Tama or Yamaha, use slightly different hardware designs for mounting rack toms. This design includes a vertical tube connected to a ball and socket and a vertical arm that receives and positions the drum.

Older drums, like Slingerland or Rogers, come with a variety of early tom mounting hardware designs.

Drum Thrones

Drum seats, or thrones, are an essential part of any drum set. They provide a comfortable and stable place for the drummer to sit and play for long periods. 

Here are the different types of drum seats and thrones.

1. Basic Round Seat Throne – A basic throne is a common type of drum seat. It consists of a round cushion or seat with a metal stand and three or four legs. It is usually adjustable in height and is ideal for beginners or drummers on a budget.
2. Hydraulic Throne – A hydraulic throne, also known as a gas-lift throne, is a type of drum seat that can be easily adjusted in height with a hydraulic lift system. This type of throne is more comfortable and offers more versatility than a basic throne.
3. Saddle Throne – A saddle throne is a type of drum seat that is designed to provide maximum comfort and support for the drummer. It features a saddle-shaped seat that contours to the drummer’s body, providing better posture and reducing fatigue during long playing sessions. It’s also called a bicycle or motorcycle seat and provides a wide range of motion for the drummer and can help improve posture and reduce fatigue.

These different types of drum seats and thrones offer a variety of features and benefits to drummers of all levels. Whether you’re a beginner or a professional drummer, choosing the right drum seat can greatly improve your playing experience and help you avoid discomfort and fatigue.

Drum Set Clamps and Racks

Drum set hardware clamps and racks are alternative components for mounting drum hardware such as cymbal stands, tom holders, snare stands, and other accessories.

Clamps are used to attach hardware to existing stands or racks. There are several types of clamps, including clamp-on cymbal arms, clamp-on tom holders, and clamp-on accessory arms. 

Drum racks are freestanding metal structures designed to hold multiple pieces of drum hardware. They are generally used when there are many pieces of hardware to mount, or when the drummer needs a customized setup that cannot be achieved with standard stands. Racks can be configured in a variety of ways, including straight or curved designs, and can be expanded or contracted depending on the drummer’s needs.

It is important to choose the right hardware that is compatible with your drum set and meets your specific needs. A properly mounted and adjusted drum set can enhance a drummer’s performance and make playing more comfortable and enjoyable.

How to Set Up a Drum Set

Setting up a drum set requires a bit of planning and attention to detail to ensure everything is in the right place and properly adjusted. Here are the general steps for setting up a drum set.

1. Choose a location: First, choose a suitable location for your drum set, preferably in a quiet room with good acoustics. Make sure you have enough space to set up the entire kit and that you won’t disturb anyone while you play.
2. Drum heads: Most drum sets come with drum heads from the factory. If your drum set does not have drum heads, it would be a good idea to install them before setting up your drum set.
3. Bass Drum: Start by assembling the bass drum, adjust the bass drum spurs, which will stabilize the drum while you play. Then, attach the pedal and the beater. If the tension on the pedal is not quite the way you want it, make adjustments by either increasing the tension on the spring or changing the angle of the beater.
4. Drum Throne: The drum throne is more than a seat. It allows you to set the height to exactly where you are comfortable. Start with a comfortable height that allows your knees to be slightly lower than your hips. Leave enough room between you and the bass drum for the snare drum.
5. Snare drum: Place the snare drum stand between you and the bass drum. Unfold the legs on the base of the stand, and attach the snare drum to the top by placing it in the basket and tightening the basket arms. Adjust the height and angle of the snare drum to your preferred playing position. This can always be fine tuned when the rest of the drum set is in place.
6. Hi-hat Stand and Cymbals: Place the hi-hat stand to the left of the snare drum if you are playing the bass drum with your right foot. Like most drum hardware stands, unfold the legs to establish a stable base. Adjust the vertical tube that holds the bottom hi-hat cymbal so it is a comfortable height for playing. Make sure that the rod is tightly screwed into the stand. Attach the hi-hat clutch, with the top cymbal on it, to the rod. You can adjust the distance between the top and bottom hi-hat cymbals by loosening the clutch on the rod, pushing down or releasing the foot pedal, and retightening the clutch when it is at the desired height. 
7. Add the toms: Attach the tom mounts to the bass drum and attach the toms to the mounts. Adjust the height and angle of each tom to your preferred playing position.
8. Add the cymbals: Unfold the legs to establish the base of the cymbal stand, and raise the tubes to a desired height for playing. Attach the crash and ride cymbals to their stands and position them within reach of your drumsticks.
9. Adjust the drum set: Once all the pieces are in place, adjust each drum and cymbal to your preferred playing position. Make sure everything is stable and secure, and adjust the height and angle of each piece as needed.
10. Tune the drums: Finally, tune each drum to your preferred pitch using a drum key or tuning tool. Make sure each drum is in tune with itself and with in relation to the other drums in the set.

Once you’ve completed these steps, your drum set should be ready to play. Remember to adjust and fine-tune the setup as needed until you find the perfect configuration for your playing style and comfort.

Drum Set Configurations

You can set up a drum set in almost an infinite amount of configurations. Check out this article on drum kit setup for more information on drum set configurations.

Percussion Add Ons for Drum Set

Drummers often incorporate additional percussion instruments into their drum sets to add more variety and depth to their sound. Here are some common percussion instruments that drummers add to their drum sets, along with a detailed description for each:

Tambourine	A tambourine is a handheld percussion instrument consisting of a circular frame with metal jingles attached to it. It is played by shaking or striking it with a drumstick or hand.
Cowbell	A cowbell is a percussion instrument that is often used in rock and Latin music. It is played by striking it with a drumstick to produce a distinct, metallic sound.
Woodblock	A woodblock is a percussion instrument made of a hollow wooden block. It is played by striking it with a drumstick, producing a deep, resonant sound.
Shaker	A shaker is a percussion instrument that produces a shaking or rattling sound. It is typically made of a hollow container filled with small objects like beads or seeds. It is played by shaking it back and forth or by hitting it against the palm of the hand.
Guiro	A guiro is a percussion instrument consisting of a hollow gourd or tube with ridges on its surface. It is played by scraping a stick or a pick along the ridges, producing a rasping sound.
Timbale	A timbale is a metal drum with a single head, often used to play fills in Afro-Antillean music. The shell of the drum can also be used to keep time, like in Cuban popular music forms.
Bongos	Bongos are a pair of small, handheld drums that are typically played with the hands. They are often used in Latin music and produce a distinctive, high-pitched sound.
Congas	Congas are tall, narrow drums that are played with the hands. They are typically used in Latin music and produce a deep, resonant sound.

Adding these percussion instruments to a drum set can greatly expand the range of sounds and rhythms that drummers can produce. They can also add a unique character and flavor to a drummer’s playing style.

Drum Set Accessories

There are a variety of accessories available for drum sets that can enhance the sound, improve playability, or provide added convenience for drummers. Here are some common drum set accessories with a detailed description for each:

1. Drumsticks: Drumsticks are essential accessories for drumming, and they come in various sizes, weights, and materials. They are used to strike the drums and cymbals to create sound.
2. Drum cases: Drum cases are used to transport drum sets safely and protect them from damage. They come in various sizes and shapes, and they are usually made of durable materials like nylon or hard plastic.
3. Practice pads: Practice pads are small, rubber pads that simulate the feel of a drumhead. They are used for practicing drumming techniques without the need for a full drum set.
4. Metronome: A metronome is a device used to keep time and help drummers play in rhythm. It produces a steady beat that can be adjusted to different tempos.
5. Dampening pads: Drum dampening pads are used to reduce the amount of ringing and overtones produced by drums. They are placed on the drumhead to absorb unwanted vibrations and produce a more controlled sound.
6. Tuning key: A drum tuning key is a tool used to adjust the tension of drumheads. It is essential for tuning drums and maintaining consistent sound quality.
7. Brushes: Drum brushes are an alternative implement to drumsticks that are used for a softer, more subtle playing style. They are made of wire or nylon bristles and are used to create a more subdued sound on cymbals and drums.

These accessories can greatly enhance the playing experience for drummers and provide added convenience, protection, and versatility to their drum sets.